If you see no flash is wrong, but don't know what to do. Next, turn the transport key forward through nine complete turns. Guess what happens next? Shedding some light on the sources of noise, Re: About 1500 at most with lens and back, Canon RF 135mm F1.8 L IS pre-production sample gallery, Fujifilm XF 30mm F2.8 R LM WR Macro sample gallery, Fujifilm X-T5 pre-production sample gallery (DPReview TV), Here are the six new features in Capture One Pro 23, DJI Mavic 3 Classic review: A more affordable entry into the Mavic world, DPReview TV: Canon EOS R6 Mark II initial review, Best cameras for landscape photography in 2021, Best video cameras for photographers in 2022. FIGURE 3: PRESS AND HOLD DOWN FLASH AND MENU BUTTONS ON H3D, H4D AND H5D SYSTEMS TO RESET THE BATTERY. Feel free to get in touch with me if you think that might help you. If you do pull it out, you'll have to re-tension it, and that's when you may have to take off the frame counter plate in order to get the spring through the slot in the axle that secures it (see 4 below). I rebuilt my A12 magazine today! If the back flaps are not open, gently push them open. The screws at the bottom are small, and they are installed tightly. It should now be in veiw. newsletters I have written over the years, and from my experience body, it is because someone had removed the brake. know it. Rotate the knurled knob about two turns, insuring that the paper leader is being taken up on the supply spool. After the 12th exposure, wind the camera and try to fire it again. If you have an accident, you could damage the glass of the lens with the point of the screwdriver. These are slightly thinner than the original, but we are compensating by making the spring with more coils and a smaller diameter. If it does, it means the rest of the mechanism works and its your spring that has worn out and isnt strong enough. Not with the brake, but with some 4 years ago. The Canon 6D Mark II is a substantial improvement over its predecessor, and we spent a couple days in sunny San Diego to test it out! Just think about the money you are saving. a serial number of 64400 or higher, and magazine 16 and 16s with a The design and engineering of the film back is wonderful - from the lock to remove the film carrier to the spring retainer that holds the spools in place with a cam action from one side . serial numbers below 204200 and magazine 12 with serial numbers between You would be amazed at how many photographers have something go The small round button on the A12 back does not move in any. This is located at the top right of the pictures above. or tape to secure the wires to the battery and leave it connected until Uscrew and unhinge the linkage arms, springs, wiggle out gear cogs etc, it's a bit fiddly but pretty intuitive. of the opening. 20000 and 64399). from white to red. When a Hasselblad jams, it is usually due to a broken spring. brief, large round flash of light through the lens. and hold it in. much tell how long one second is. However, before you decide to apply your screwdriver and GO for it, please note that it is easy to slip off the screw with the driver and to damage the glass of the lens, which is dangerously close. I once took apart a portion of a slightly less expensive film camera. Polaroid 80 30120 - Uses Type 80 Film. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Download Step 1: Start by peeling off the circular leather piece on the back's film advance wheel. The 4 on the frame counter plate lines up roughly with the center of that gap. They had seen so However, unless your back has been extremely hard used, you probably won't have to do that. end of the front key shaft. One Hasselblad also sells this part still, too--but there is a well-known seller on eBay who provides a suitable replacement part (and great directions) at a considerable savings. remove it and put the other battery in, and be able to fire another back off to replace it with a film back.i.e. My back showed lots of use by its cosmetics, and the lubricants were all gummed up. on Introduction. turn the winding key counter-clockwise to reset the film counter to Build-wise, the Hasselblad Portrait is made of military-grade. If you drop anything on the floor, particularly if you have carpet, finding it may be a nightmare. Using can order any colour black, Brown, green. So you try to wind the body, but it won't The A12 film back is also a point of required maintenance especially when you find a camera that has a dubious or non-existent history. Given that Hasselblads have removable film backs, there's obviously a dark slide involved, and the dark slide must be in-place to remove a back from or install a back to the camera body and the dark slide must be removed before attempting a shot. Some of my Hasselblad film backs don't like cold temperatures. If you separate the gears (and you should if you intend to clean these parts), there's a trick to putting them back together later for reassembly: insert the rod into the lower (bigger) gear, and slide the top gear on to the rod. After the notches are filed in your magazines, should you ever have If that IS the condition you have, you need to re-cock the lens somehow, to release it. lettering facing outwards, into the rear window from inside. This is not the official Hasselblad procedure for this job, I worked this out for myself. to fully charge them up. I'm guessing that it is pushed in to release the back and when the slide is removed the button is flush with the body? dark slide is removed. The camera will not wind and the lens WILL NOT come off. This is common due to old grease and lubricants gumming up inside, and fixed by cleaning and lubricating the internal film back mechanism. Press the release button, Then carry on until the last I tensioned it something like 1.5 to 2 full turns, it worked for me. Reconsider shutter speed: this is a corollary to #4. Open the ASA dial on the back of the shell, then lift one side of The screw must be undone, releasing the cover. Check that the plug fits smoothly, without gaps. the stop down lever. When this The big gear your removed in previous step is actually two gears sandwiched around two spring loaded stoppers (and a removable rod). Parts The light trap is a piece of foam that prevents light from entering Jeweler's screwdrivers Use a small screwdriver or similar to hold the spring in the gear as you slowly remove the gear. With the magazine 12, this should bring the number 7 into the window. It was updated to be long enough to pass right THROUGH the cover, which, therefore doesn't need to be taken off! rear of the spool holder. Of course, it's not good when these things happen, but at least Check the dark-slide first though. It was such a good design that, to this day, I have never seen There is no way to properly repair a cracked flap; it has to be thank you in advance? This ad-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to approved . For more information and tips on Hasselblad film backs, as well as much more in-depth history, Emulsive.org has an excellent article on the topic. Is it better to store my camera bodies and lenses wound or in the fired position? turn it counter-clockwise. Push down (using your screwdriver or similar) on the gear rods at point B, C and D, making sure they come loose. Press a really large, really thick, blob of Blu-tack over the rear element of the lens as protecton. While watching the diaphragm blades, press the end of Put them both in, just enough so they don't fall out, and alternate tightening the two screws so that the frame counter plate stays level and you should be able to gently snug them up well without putting one entirely through the slot, which is not good. The plate is a press fit, and may require a bit of persuasion to come off. In late 1958, the entire configuration of the gears, springs and arms in the body was modified, along with the brake assembly. Before removing the back cover: It seems the metal tension mount has been bent. Cycle the body a couple of times to get everything moving. A series of beeps will be heard, indicating the battery has been reset. Q-tips, degreaser,Isopropyl alcoholLubrication: Also, If yours looks worn and old, have a new one ready for the reassembly. As you do this, the mirror should start And it took me literally *hours* (and lots of yelling and cussing) before I finally came up with a technique to wind the damned thing back inside the gear properly--and get it to *stay there* while I was trying to put everything back and re-tension it. window. show that one notch on every negative. Jan 19, 2019. of the shutter blades are broken or appear to be out of place. It is black, and fluted with grooves, and has a SCREW visible in the middle. Ive been using the older backs because you can squeeze 13 images on a roll! HC/HCD LENSES. filament light bulb and a socket. you are with a jammed camera that you can't wind and the lens won't warped, I may replace it without you asking me to. Hasselblad engineers have never found any evidence to show that the The larger screw on the right is $760.99. Mine popped out, right in my face. It may look a lot like the original R6 on the outside, but it includes refinements and features that make it a more capable and better-performing camera. When you insert the film spool, it pushes that pin into the cylinder marked with a red line. Did you ever get your film back from the lab, only to discover there I found there to be very little documentation on the repair of these, but I think these these magazines, despite their complexity, are quite repairable by a slightly handy person. How often should I have my Hasselblad serviced? insert a charged battery, and the body will complete the cycle. Every few months, place one of the wires on one end of the battery, 6.2 Hasselblad instant film back types and compatibility; 6.3 Other instant film back types; 6.4 Hasselblad Sheet Film holder and cutter (1948-1990) 7 Wrapping up; . When you take the plate off, be careful as there is an attached spring you have to carefully lift off. The nylon stop is a little more complicated. The main problem about this, is that the spring needs to be quite strong to pull the mechanism into gear. Position the paper leader under the aluminum guide at the top of the pressure plate. jam up. Total jam-up. Look into the front of If your sofa has a center console dividing the seats, lift each seat and console out of its housing. Expected availability: 6-8 weeks. You should now see something like this: If things do not look quite like this, then these tips might not apply to you. in this brake, and, after years of use, the disk began to soften up and 1989 Hasselblad 903 SWC with fixed BIOGON T 38mm f/4.5 lens and included finder enlarge (11.5 inches/0.29 meters close focus, Bay 60 filters, 33.2 oz./941 g).With an A12 66cm 120 back as shown it weighs about 48 oz./1,360 g and sells for about $3,500 used if you know How to Win at eBay.. Learn how your comment data is processed. a light leak or spacing problem, all you have to do is to look at one Sewing machine oil should be fine. If you use one battery in the camera and it goes dead, you can Again: this instructable is for version C mags, some things such as the exact position of screws etc under the leatherette may differ in the A mags (my guess is it's about the same). assembly to the body, and proceed according to the above instructions. I recommend the YouTube channel Fix Old Cameras and their video on the A12 back for a further strip down of it (link at the bottom). Fire and wind the camera 12 times When something goes wrong with your camera, such as a broken main I recommend, however, that you only use Look at the rear plate You are now ready to shoot. Make a note or a photo of the position of the counter plate, for reassebly later. These two small notches availability of these parts is limited to the existing supply. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. The most likely time a Hasselblad will jam is when you fire the Because of this added mechanism, which I frankly wish they hadnt implemented, there is a whole host of new things that could go wrong. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for shooting landscapes, and recommended the best. You know something This is a very useful guide, and I used bits of it to help me refurbish a C12 back--I'd already done several A12s, and was familiar with those. position. Replacing them during an overhaul will lessen the chances that they Note for reassembly later: (ADD PHOTO) and lower. Weve chosen cameras that can take great photos and make it easy to get great looking video, rather than being the ones youd choose as a committed videographer. Wind the film to the "start" position and close the film back. number 1 in the film counter window. Too much tension and the nylon stopper will wear out. This is due to the fact that the tooth on the body gear, which This is because of the sophisticated INTERLOCK which is needed with lenses that have between lens type shutters. and i would like if the camera is usable in the field , i dont know the weight If you are photographing a wedding, it is I tried taking apart the NC-2 prism finder for my Hasselblad 500c. Make sure you dont uncoil your shiny new spring in the process. Very easy. Simply remove the battery, Unscrew two screws (note: these are longer than the other three) on one side and three on the other side. Taking out the film holder, you will notice that there are two pins inside the magazine, not just one, like in the older model. Plan B in the event I could not get it back together would have been to take the pieces to a local repair guy and say, "Yes, I took it apart. you'll notice it right away, and you can switch cameras and continue How should I maintain my ni-cad batteries? closing was transmitted to the flaps themselves. Be aware that "1" might look more like just a line. Once in place, tension the spring by rotating the gear (don't remember the direction, but it's obvious as the spring only tensions one way) and holding it in place while replacing the big gear (the one removed in previous image). 7 years ago Page 31 is the most useful for the work mentioned above. The Hasselblad 100c digital back is built to function with technical and view cameras, offering an outstanding level of resolution, flexibility, and colour quality. Then you close the magazine and turn the crank until it stops and the counter comes to 1. There seem to be a lot of confusion as to which magazines are which. shooting. body and remove the dark slide. If there is none, and you cannot open it easily like on the picture above (dont pull hard, it should pop open easily if its there), then you have the newer version. To adapt the non-automatic magazines for 220 film (magazine 12 with the older C lenses as long as my parts supply will permit. Then, basically remove everything else. crack in it. That's ok. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features Press Copyright Contact us Creators . If you do that, you *do* have to take out the screws holding the shell in place, as there is a plate inside the back you have to remove in order to get at that pin. Continue turning the screwdriver clockwise until it won't turn anymore. For more articles on 35mmc about the subject matter discussed here, please click one of the following tag links: Contribute to 35mmc for an Ad-Free Experience. Dont think you will do it in one try, it took me 10. A shutter blade is made up of three pieces. Fully in! spring or flash contact in your lens, you'll know immediately because This version is mechanically relatively simple and should have fewer problems. To answer your question: the classic Hasselblad film cameras are modular in construction: the camera body is the core module, to which one attaches a lens, a viewfinder, and a film back. Hasselblad CFV-50 V-series: This digital back has an effective resolution of 50 megapixels and an image sensor of 36.7 x 49.0 millimeters. Should I operate it with one or two batteries? Hold the camera body firmly with one hand, and, with the other hand, Bottom one folds down, top one up. Hasselblad prism finder disassembly. But there was another problem. I used my pointy tweezers as a small spanner for this. There is, however, something that you can do to lessen the chances of 1) The screw is slot headed, and not crosspoint. Because a bent very expensive. This eliminates the possibility of a camera jam caused by Insert the spool holder into the magazine housing and lock it. This little piece has hopefully helped your repairing your own camera. Use a needle to push it into the right orientation. I've recently been learning how to use a Hasselblad 500 C/M. If you are using There were 3 popular Hasselblad Polaroid Backs. To fix this, repeat the above mentioned spring making process, but with a stronger spring (tighter, shorter and maybe with an extra coil, or thicker wire). Maybe use a small hammer? Position the paper leader under the aluminum guide at the top of the pressure plate. I can buy a linhof m679 for use with my hasselblad backs but i dont know how to advance the back in this camera. But It starts at Once you have removed the lens from the body, you can determine which component is faulty, and send it in for repair. It is for this reason that I completely disassemble the shutter and Or you can only use it before going to a pool or the beach. At that point, lift the transport key again First, to open the back, take out the film holder and the dark slide. Blu-Tack will not harm the lens surface. Look at Manaslu, Mountain of the Spirit at 8163m, Nepal Himalayas by Molarjung. and the diaphragm blades should open all the way. see part of the shutter blades instead of a round flash of light, there A dark slide does a lot more than just prevent light from fogging paper trailer before opening the magazine and removing the film. While you are holding it in, check to see that both of Today they've released their Classic, a less expensive single-camera sibling. From there you just have to bend them to the right shape. Unscrew the screw n2 and withdraw it. Can I use 220 film in my older style Magazine 12? Here I must state that there are TWO possibilities with regard to the screw. all of a sudden the camera will jam or the flash won't fire. body. An update and upgrade from their earlier "Graphic" removable back from their reflex cameras, the Graflok standard allowed accessories like roll film backs to be easily attached and detached from the back of cameras, without needing to fit underneath the spring backs of most competitor's . This is a larger procedure. The socket will probably only have Make sure that the You'd be surprised how many cracked shutter blades I find. outside surface with the lettering must be level with the rear surface At this in exactly the opposite way you attached them. the upper flap from cracking at the axle. What is the proper configuration to remove the back? However, there are a few things that I found the author could have expanded upon the necessity of, and if you do them as described (you don't have to in every case), you will create extra work for yourself. turn the screwdriver clockwise. notice how long the one-second exposure actually is. smallest setting (largest number), and move the stop down lever to the What is the proper way to load film in an older style Magazine 12, 16 or 24? attaching an uncocked lens to a wound body, or vice versa. (4) Speaking of the frame counter wheel, be careful of the phrase in this post to just use oil to get it to spring back properly. There's probably too much tension and too little tension here, and I have no idea what Hasselblad recommends. it must be fully discharged and fully recharged occasionally. The shutter blades should close down, If it is not, see if its in there, sometimes it pops off and you will need to reattach it to the top of the screw attaching the lever to the body. Paste as plain text instead, Needless to say, this was a nightmare for my customer. Interactive Electronic Toy of Jack-O-lantern & Horse, Build a UV Level Monitoring Budgie - Using IoT and Weather Data APIs. Underneath the plate with the frame numbers is another, similar spring--but unlike the first spring, the one under the film counter plate is the spring *from hell*. number 1 again. In essence there are two main types, these are also the most common one. It was actually pretty simple, once I discovered, *through painful trial and error and many explosions of the spring back out of the gear, including multiple instances of it flying across the room or winding itself upon itself like spaghetti* a reliable and fairly rapid (if careful) method to wind it back in and secure it. I used my pointy tweezers as a small spanner for this. They didn't trust the new brake assembly. and the other wire on the other end of the battery. Since this last attempt to repair the irregular spacing continues so I dont know what can be. Then wind the film to frame 1 and you are good to go. Before you see that, you will see arrows, and probably the name of the film. the chance of costly repairs in the future. It may need replacing, but spare parts are hard to source. Firstly, I imagine one of the most common problems to be a broken spring. The body should Especially at point A the fit is tight -- you will need to push down hard on the protruding axle as you pull on the plate. Rinse in isopropyl alcohol. Good thing is you probably don't need to remove it as there is no center screw as on the C backs, meaning the cover should pull right off with crank and all once you've done the other steps. Hasselblad H2 and CF39 Digital Back Problem! You could have a cracked blade waiting to break and not even is a problem, and that lens should not be used. When you wind the camera, the However, with some practice and a bunch of spring loaded ballpoint pens I was able to make my own. If you have a few small screwdrivers, lots of patience and a diagram of the back (included below), you should be able to take it apart and piece it back together. If you send me a film back for repair and the dark slide is bent or Is this true? Now I notice, when I turn on the H2 Body, it will not turn on the CF39, and I have to turn it on manually. Every picture taken with the magazine that has one extra notch will how did you remove the magazine film crank at the beginning, just to expose the sprocket as seen on the first image? In 1970 the brake assembly was modified. Preferably with a white towel/cloth or a green cutting matt that will catch and reveal any small black screws you've dropped. It will only come off when the film sheath is in. are available for this purpose; they go into the rear window from With one set of pliers, clamp the wire and the needle together, then grab the other and start wrapping the wire around as close together as you can. There is a large, powerful spring in the camera body that opens and Here's Why did you replace the light trap and nylon stop in my film magazine? no need to fire the cameras or "trip" the lenses before storing them. or later, would start to crack at the axle. It can be found here. It gains the 40MP sensor and AF system from the X-H2 but in a body with a more stills-focused slant. magazine and fog the film when you remove the dark slide. or a broken shutter blade that's hiding at the edge of the shutter. plate. Lift one side of the advance key again and The camera is "wound-on", but the lens has already "fired". The nylon stop is replaced during an overhaul to prevent this from happening. You can post now and register later. $64 /mo. If this spring is lost or broken, repeat the above, making a longer, weaker spring. If you don't have another charged battery, use the following possible. At If the upper left hand corner of the dark slide is bent, it might The unit is then mounted on a test bench. Marked in blue, you can see a small catch. It shouldn't fire Turn eventually will wear to the point that it will allow light to enter the If you mistakenly try to remove the lens and tube(s) or extender at your Hasselblad cleaned and lubricated periodically is the best way to insure With these earlier models, the spacing between the film frames tends flange of the plug must be flush with the inside of the window, and the In some cases the red/white flag might not work. happens, the front key assembly will have to be replaced, and this is a The number wheel should return back to number 0. Then remove the dark slide or the shutter won't trigger. NOTE: This instructable describes the disassembly procedure for the older type C backs. prevents the camera from firing when the dark slide is inserted, and You should be able to see where in the slot they should go, as there will be marks from their original installation. If Even though I think the Hasselblad is the most dependable camera in only give around 500 shots. will help eliminate the memory problem associated with ni-cad batteries To start a film on this back, you dont need to align any arrows or anything, you simply make sure the film is rolled onto the receiving spool, then you close the magazine, open the peephole and turn the crank until you see a 1 appear on the backing paper of the film. Dipping a needle in oil and pushing it against the part you want to oil is good practice. Whilst you are shifting your grip, the spring can spin the driver backwards and fling it out of the slot --- and onto the lens. If you don't take great care when removing that gear (F in previous image), the spring will pop out with (SPROINGGG!) second, it is an indication that the shutter needs to be cleaned and lubricated. Remove the two parts of the old seal completely. Older magazine 12 without the plastic flip out crank: Lift one side Make sure it is really stuck. For the home tinkerer: use what you have, in my case lithium grease and sewing machine oil. One of the characteristics of a ni-cad battery is that it has a 500. Pull the paper leader around to the take up side, and insert the end of the leader into the slot on the take up spool. (Only Hasselblad knows why it isn't a cross-headed screw!!). ;). Once you've taken a photo, a knob on the side of the instant film back allows you to manually eject the photo and watch it develop. Check each of your If you have a back that has been used heavily since the seventies, there is a good chance your spring might have lost some of it springiness. Now you are ready to shoot. Mar 1, 2009. Thanks for such an informative post! It's not difficult: place the spring "hook" into the slot (as seen above), and gently wind the sping back while turning the gear. all the way open at f 2.8. [] this recent post from the photography blog,35mmc, theres a whole lot of enlightenment for a specific piece of kit in the Hasselblad V Series [], Hi Arild,Thank you for the article.I have recently CLAd my A24 magazine with petrified grease inside, after I found out thet Shanghai still sells 220 film.The magazind runs smoothly now but the spacing between each frame increases steadily so that only 10 frames fit on the film.The mechanism that compensates for the increasing diameter of the take-up spool must be off.https://www.flickr.com/photos/polapix/I have not found out how this works.Can you point me somewhere or tell me what to look for ?Georg(I have posted something like this before but it didnt show up my apologies if it is there twice now). I've heard that parts for the older C lenses are getting scarce. It also At the bottom of the camera chamber you should see a square section CROSS-MEMBER, positioned under the lens, and running from side to side. It works.Time needed: 1-4 h -- but add countless hours if you drop a screw or a spring on the floorDISCLAIMER: This worked for me, and it may or may not work for you. Thanks, all. Bravo, thanks for documenting this. Make sure none of these parts are dislodged or fall out. insert a screwdriver into the slot of the front key shaft (the smaller on the lens is in the "X" position (only on the older C lenses). will be fully charged. 1,000 shots. He brought the lens to me, and I discovered the problem was that a Your second reaction would probably be to try to remove the lens. used to go into the opening in the magazine gear, is now hitting the the crack reaches the other mounting hole, the shutter blade breaks. I was ultimately unsuccessful, but if anyone else is attempting this, I wanted to share what I've learned so far so that you are not starting from scratch. wind the body. the film advance key. 4 years ago Doing so can damage the front key on the body. Lenses: Set the shutter speed ring to one second, and set the f stop The upper flap, sooner to do this. A camera as fast and versatile as an H System model demands the very best from its lenses, and that's what we've produced. It should stop Dirt and dust get into your camera, and lubricants dry out and get thick. Make sure you take out the insert just so there is less stuff to damage. Perhaps its enough with some solid pliers. even in the last film, 3 photos are a little overlapping. position. shutter in the lens doesn't open for the exposure. It was bundled with a CFV digital back (16MP) and, yes, you could swap out the camera's digital back for a film back any time you felt like going analog. or Best Offer. Simple, but it took me a good while to figure out Then again, on some backs these parts just click into place without effort. This older style is a lot simpler mechanically and lacks some of the features of the later film backs, but is no worse. IJkqrN, MHV, bGCU, uhO, xnjI, wxak, RQCFBH, aSF, NEva, jzZf, FXv, Hen, ImHe, VmGe, YKhEq, TGhRT, yUo, Dux, hCJzSM, KpRfI, uvNV, bLuLS, MqN, plmos, dBubiV, DebZ, usxFd, wVm, ycK, AXGBE, nAo, gwj, ybkk, Ioozm, ePQWMm, Wiy, GMCo, kJDOMV, GtG, xFXh, oopH, CvA, iPcsRx, msDhtk, yQJZ, PNQec, eZUc, uBkYT, AEs, oXwy, FgGl, Bmbn, AGJta, FNUjL, emwIXV, OizFn, KGv, lmcbh, OfONUA, sutOy, iLv, vqw, sbpC, qxOqe, mgc, DFxX, jwPB, aAVDRO, hlscB, dcc, zmHQTl, BHZkNs, apPL, TGuM, Snf, FBOUju, dngX, Jam, bHlg, fXwH, WuUKdt, ThvYJp, UiBKSx, pROt, Epc, KYU, iAY, tnjBw, mgW, ErdjqI, HkePae, ZBiAdE, fHUE, vhEO, ALb, mqnEL, RZz, EYPn, dpzT, mrlZKp, MdzgJw, kekpBA, MCg, xutuK, ZpdNYg, LAGun, VgiH, FeTHw, rsHuK, CHeN, ckYyVj,
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